2/11/13

Today I woke up around six a.m. to go for a nice run on the beach. Upon my sweat-drenched return and before I showered, I decided to sit on the seawall and watch the tide come in (unfortunately not without the company of some pesky beach boys trying to sell me starfish among countless other woodcarvings and souvenirs). After breakfast omelets and much mango juice, we again headed down to the Old Town in Mombasa where we met local Swahili history and culture professors, whom we had a discussion panel with in what used to be the high court building during colonial times. It was really wonderful to be able to talk to ask such candid questions of people from a fascinating culture so different from our own. The influence of Islam in this area is huge, and it is nice to get a bit of the local culture and flavor from such genuine and inviting people.

Following the panel discussion, we had a chance to tour Old Town with one of the tour guides from Fort Jesus, who took us on a grand tour through the narrow streets with so much history. We had an opportunity to see the two oldest mosques in Kenya, built in 1565 and 1584 (prior to and around the same time as the fort). Also, we saw the first post office, fish market, and port landings in addition to the shipwreck site of the Portuguese ship documented in the museum at the fort. We had a lovely Swahili lunch prepared by local mamas (as they say here) that consisted of many local dishes full of spice and excitement. As a crossroads of cultures, Mombasa boasts some great foods borrowed from several diverse flavor profiles of the Bantu Swahili people, the Portuguese who occupied the city for a long time, and the Arab spice traders who also came through and to the fort for a long time.

Julia took this picture of the main facade at Fort Jesus. Locals play soccer in the afternoon on this pitch in the shadow of the fort. Photo credit: Julia Hall

In the afternoon before we headed back to Jumia for some more time in the pool and on the beach, we had a chance to visit Biashara Street on more time to do some shopping. While I mostly abstained from buying anything, I did enjoy the chance to further hone my bartering skills with the locals. I think my best bet is to learn the numbers better in Swahili, so I can get better prices that cut out or down on the hefty Mzungu (white person) tax. For now, I must head to dinner, but I will check back in later after the debate we plan to watch at the German resort next door where we caught the football match last night.

photo credit: Abby Martin

2/12/13

Today started out like any other; a beautiful sunrise, a short run on the beach, and a nice breakfast omelet. I had a great conversation with Celia about Obama’s Stat of the Union Address, which we missed early this morning. We also discussed the outcome of the debate, which certainly got mixed reviews. One thing that truly floored me about the debate, however, was how cordial the candidates were towards each other, and also how well the moderators held them to their proscribed time limits. Perhaps the sheer number of candidates, at eight, prohibited the back-and-forth banter we are so accustomed to during presidential debates in the states.  

Soon after breakfast, we loaded up the bus for our one-and-a-half hour trip to the sacred Kaya forests at Rabai, where we spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon. After the long right through the unbelievable Mombasa traffic in the sweltering heat, we arrived at Rabai for our forest adventure. Soon after a harrowing drive down rough roads in the bus, we arrived close to the entrance of the sacred Kaya forest. There we met William, who serves as the Rabai Kaya museum curator and also as an active member of the Rabai community who has been working closely with the CFC (Coastal Forest Conservancy) and the Rabai to promote an ecotourism conservation project there.

Accompanied by two village elders and William, we headed into the sacred Kaya (forest), which the native Mijikenda people believe is both sacred and integral to the preservation of their culture. Before entering the forest, we passed by several gravesites of elder Rabai diviners, and also a ‘gadget’ used to ward off evil spirits. To enter the most sacred sections of the Kaya (that they allow outsiders to see), we first had to sit and reflect for a while. Additionally, we had to take off our shoes. In some areas, the sun had heated up the rocky, sandy, forest floor to a temperature almost unbearable to all but the hardened and calloused feet of the ancient Rabai elders (who stood by smiling as we sprinted across the hot spots like we were running over coals). Inside the settlement area, we were able to learn about some of their traditions and rituals, most of which involve the Elders going to spend several days living in the Kaya; there they spend multiple days taking oaths, praying to their ancestors, and performing many other traditional rituals. Following the tour of the Kaya, we were treated to a lovely traditional Rabai meal before we headed back to the hotel to spend the rest of the day poolside. 

2/13/13

Today we were able to sleep in a bit (until eight o'clock!), which is a luxury, if you can believe that. Breakfast was more relaxed than usual, as people came to eat at their leisure. There were somewhat slim pickings, though, for those who arrived later because the other group of guests at the resort was about 50 young men training to be poll monitors for the upcoming election. Needless to say, if you've been keeping up with my previous posts, but young Kenyan men eat A LOT of food. Following breakfast and nice chat with Celia and Jau, I had time to take a dip in the pool and journal on the seawall for a short while before class. 

Soon, we headed to another panel discussion with four local Mijikenda women, who shared much of their experiences living as women in a very traditionally patriarchal society. Through the hour and a half of fielding questions, I learned much from these educated women, who discussed all manners of social, economic, religious, and other issues and challenges they continue to face. Perhaps the most interesting to me, was the discussion raised about the presence of a secessionist party known as the MRC, or the Mombasa Republican Coalition. For the most part, the coastal communities are marginalized in the political sphere, underrepresented and rarely sought after, except maybe for when a politician will visit a sacred Kaya to ask for a blessing in upcoming election. 

Also, another striking topic discussed by the women was healthcare. One woman, referring to the high infant and maternity mortalities common in coastal communities, said that the Mijikenda have a saying to the effect of "when you are pregnant, you are holding your death certificate in your hands". Also, on the issue of malaria prevention, they told us that many people end up using the provided nets to protect their baby chicks from crows, rather than their children from mosquitoes. 

This afternoon we went on a "Sea Safari" with a few of the local beach boys. We saw octopus, many sea lion fish, a couple sea cucumbers, tons of sea urchins, and equally as many coral formations. Although they were somewhat helpful while navigating the coral pathways on the out to the breaking waves at the edge of the reef, the beach boys were more annoying than anything else, especially when asking for money at the end of the "free sea safari". Still, it was really cool to be able to see the marine life on and around the coral formations. Even cooler still, when we returned, we were greeted by small baboon families playing all over the grounds around and between our rooms. I even saw one of the mothers with a baby clinging to her chest drinking from the faucet by the pool, which she had turned on herself! How cool. Also, tonight we're going on a sunset cruise aboard a massive double-decker dhow. It should be really fun, especially because St. Lawrence in buying us our first round of drinks with dinner. Right now I'm sitting on the seawall watching small trimarans cooking along the horizon as I wait for the girls to get ready. It's amazing how quickly the tide comes in here. Maybe it has something to do with the reef ledge. Regardless, its remarkable. Just now a man wheeled his bike past me on the small ledge of cement at the top of the beach where it meets the seawall, complete with a bucket on the back of his bike full of squid, fish, and his catch of the day. What a sight! Anyways, it is now time for us to head to bus. Bon Voyage!  

A great photo of a local triamaran in the distance. Photo Credit: Max Miller

A beach boy carries his wares down the beach. Photo credit: Max Miller

The chef's aboard the Tamarid Dhow prepare our meal photo credit: Max Miller

The Tamarind Dhow Photo credit: Julia Hall

2/14/13

Happy Valentines Day! The first thing I have to say is that the cruise last night was AMAZING! Not only was the wooden Tamarind Dhow spectacular, but the food and band were equally as impressive. We had a blast motoring up the channel to the old port and beyond the breakwater, and then back up the river, under the causeway and up to a nice bay where we picked up a mooring (much like the empty oil tank mooring we tied up to in SABA many years ago) and ate dinner before dancing. Aboard the Tamarind Dhow the food was truly top-notch, and easily takes the cake as the best meal I've enjoyed in Kenya thus far. Also, the band was really nice and played a lot of American music, although I would have liked to see them play some more traditional Swahili-inspired music. 

This morning I woke up and went for a run on the beach before breakfast. It was easily the hottest run of my life, a grueling five kilometer jog down the beach that had me sinking three or four inches into the sand every second step. Still, it was a good sweat before breakfast, and I'm glad I went. After breakfast, I sat on the seawall for a while to journal and was quickly approached by a friendly beach boy eager to show me his inventory of shells he had collected overnight. For a while I spoke Spanish at him, not to him (I've found this technique has served me well with the beach boys recently), but then I decided I liked his coconut leaf hat. He did not even question my seamless transition to English, even though I had insisted only minutes earlier that I spoke none at all. After some small talk about Florida and California (where all Americans are from, according to him), I asked him about the awesome woven hat.

My hat weaving Beach Boy friend          

photo credit: Julia Hall

He told me that I could have his for only 100 shillings, "A very good price for you, my friend," a mantra we've heard quite a lot this week. After trying his on, I commissioned him to make me two of them. His eyes lit up, and he sprinted down the beach a ways to a coconut tree to fetch a few branches to use for the hats. For the next twenty-five minutes I watched him weave the intricate stitches with ease. The only tool he used, aside from the branches, was a small knife he had stowed in his belt. I have yet to pay him for the hats, as I had to go to class before he finished both, but he assured me they would be done by lunchtime when I have my break. We made a deal that each hat would cost 100 shillings (about $1.15), and I made him shake on that price (I was reminded of my favorite show to watch with Mom - Pawn Stars). I sure hope he honors our deal, but the culture here is such that no deal is final, especially with the beach boys. For this afternoon, Max and I are planning on heading to Mombasa to meet George and get some networking contacts for IDS. I'm looking forward to meeting George again, seeing his school, The Aga Khan Academy. Although I would like to take Haley out to dinner, I told her we'll have to take a raincheck and go out when we get back to Nairobi.